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Sunday

May 24 & 25: Leaving Moss & a day spent walking through Oslo

Hello friends |

In its advertising textile , Moss is referred to equally “the pearl of the fjord” , in addition to I’m inclined to believe it.  The isle is beautiful in addition to greenish in addition to surrounded past times ocean. The prepare from Moss to Oslo takes less than an hr in addition to travels through lush pino forests in addition to little villages dotted amongst brilliant cherry-red in addition to xanthous houses.  The prepare is really build clean in addition to feels to a greater extent than similar an bird than the trains inwards Melbourne.  So far , Kingdom of Norway looks non different to Scotland , but has a distinctly different feel.  There’s magic hither , but it’s a really different kind.



We slept inwards a piffling , in addition to sat inwards the garden exterior the annex to shine off the homemade breads in addition to jams that Heidi had prepared.  It was brisk exterior , in addition to the heaven was floor amongst coloring – a unmarried shade of pale grey.  A large bird was perched inwards the tree higher upward us , keeping an oculus on us equally nosotros ate.

We had simply finished packing our bags when Stig came downward to allow us know nosotros should leave of absence for the prepare , in addition to he drove us downward , giving us suggestions for fjords to catch on the Hurtigruten (and instruction us the proper pronunciation of Hurtigruten).  It wasn’t long earlier nosotros arrived inwards Oslo , caught a tantalizing glimpse , but had to caput to Majorstuen , which is where were staying.

Our floor inwards Majorstuen


When people state that Kingdom of Norway is expensive , what they hateful to state is , things are exorbitantly expensive inwards Norway.  A curt trip to the grocery shop had us , faces fallen , looking at a tube of dried spaghetti for something similar $4AUD.  We didn’t fifty-fifty allow ourselves await at sweets , but apace hurried dorsum home.

There was a lot of planning left to create of our jaunt inwards the fjords (by a lot , I hateful that nosotros had done absolutely no planning) , in addition to then nosotros laid upward amongst the estimator in addition to the Lonely Planet guide to uncovering about inspiration.  My banker's complaint to beau travellers is this: Don’t holler upward you’re beingness smart in addition to avoiding the tourists past times coming to Kingdom of Norway inwards June instead of high summer.  Just come upward inwards high summer.  This is peculiarly pertinent if you lot don’t get got a auto and/or desire to create anything outdoorsy.  We toyed amongst the notion of hiring a auto for a few days , but apace flora this blew our budget out of the water.  The hikes nosotros wanted to create slipped away , equally the tourist buses alone ran at that spot inwards the peak flavor , in addition to it would accept days out of our schedule to create the necessary motorcoach trips.  We had to re-evaluate.


We were yet tired when nosotros woke the side past times side morning time (we had been upward considering our options for far also long) , but nosotros made breakfast in addition to caput into Oslo town.  We took a dull , meandering walk that led us past times palaces in addition to gardens in addition to parks.  Oslo get got got the correct sentiment when it comes to populace sculpture in addition to waterfalls in addition to flowers.  There’s to a greater extent than ofttimes than non an air of metropolis magic equally you lot walk through the parks.  We got all the agency downward to the Botanical Gardens , but it was Mon , in addition to then the Natural History Museums were closed.  We sat in addition to had a packed dejeuner surrounded past times happy children in addition to families , equally it was a populace holiday.













Sipping our soup inwards an herb garden , I plucked fresh mint in addition to basil in addition to thyme from the Earth in addition to ate them all upward , hoping it was rubber to create so.   We were heading dorsum toward abode when nosotros stopped past times a Middle Eastern grocery shop amongst (almost) Australian-priced fruit in addition to vegetables , in addition to then nosotros popped inwards at that spot to pick upward mass bananas , potatoes , tomatoes in addition to cauliflower for the few days ahead of us.  Walking abode the long agency , nosotros went past times lots of Norwegian street fine art in addition to through fifty-fifty to a greater extent than parks to home.



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Monday

May 12 & 13: The Hollow Mountain & The Puffins

Hello friends |

We woke belatedly on Tuesday.  The heavy rainfall overnight had meant that the flow as well as the waterfalls were fifty-fifty heavier than they had been the previous twenty-four hours , as well as it was quite a meditative sound.  I dragged the blankets out into the lounge room as well as Nicholas poked the smoldering embers from terminal night’s dismiss , getting the dismiss going again. 
Vincent came as well as sat downwards yesteryear the dismiss , Black Cat taking his exit to become on parole.  We hadn’t had much planned except a hearty breakfast , as well as decided to caput to Cruachan Mountain (kru-kan mountain) to receive got a facial expression at the hydro flora that they construct into Ben Cruachan inwards the 60’s.

They’d made a huge dam upward inwards a mount corrie , as well as allowed the H2O to run through pipes within the mount as well as downwards to the loch below to generate power.  At times when they didn’t demand much ability , they could contrary it , as well as suck H2O dorsum upward to the dam.  This made me worry virtually the fish inwards the dam , but the guide explained that they had nets to halt anything getting sucked upward before I could ask.
Inside the mount they were long tunnels , large plenty to allow a double-decker , as well as a huge bedroom , large plenty to gibe the Tower of London inside.  They housed the iv large pony motors , which Nicholas tells me start the generators.  The utilization of the pony (or starter) motor agency that they tin can receive got ability to homes inwards virtually 28 seconds.  If they exactly allow the H2O inwards as well as allow the generators larn themselves going , it’d accept virtually 2 minutes.

Cruachan doesn’t run continuously , entirely at peak times when the grid needs a boost , but it tin can ability the Britain at peak unloosen energy for something similar xvi hours without needing to suck H2O dorsum up.  Amazing.

They had a nifty model of the within of the generator , which Nicholas liked as well as I didn’t actually sympathise , as well as they also had a wooden mural depicting the legend of the mount as well as the Queen using a scepter to convey electricity to the province (the Queen pulled the switch that turned the generator on).  It reminded me of the Assyrian fine art nosotros saw at the British Museum that depicted kings as well as leaders doing things that other people manifestly did.  I form of honey monarchical propaganda , fifty-fifty though I’m non into the monarchy.  I did notice Prince Harry was looking for somebody to receive got his babies though.

Back at the trouble solid , nosotros had to create a large overhaul as well as a large sort of all our things.  The boat trip was on for Midweek (I’m currently on the ferry to Mull!) as well as on Th nosotros are dropping off the motorcar , thus nosotros had to reorganize all the loose bits nether the seats as well as floating around inwards the ether.  This took longer than expected as well as at 20 minutes yesteryear midnight , Cara decided to become walkabout as well as Nicholas was running around the yard with a caput torch on trying to uncovering her.  Black Cat didn’t specially tending , as well as was sitting beside the dismiss , which was eating all the pamphlets as well as magazines we’d picked upward as well as didn’t demand anymore.

We did halt yesteryear Castle Stalker to accept some pictures , because we'd been driving yesteryear it almost every day.

Black Cat



This forenoon nosotros were upward early on (too early) as well as Nicholas had a speed shower spell I packed upward the create clean clothing as well as organised our backpack for the day.  We forced downwards breakfast as well as left after than anticipated , thus sped along the windy route towards Oban.  Nicholas parked the motorcar inwards the long-term bay , spell I collected a ringlet of tickets from the tour company.  This was our starting fourth dimension pre-planned tour twenty-four hours (possibly last) as well as nosotros were to see iv islands: Mull , Lunga , Staffa as well as Iona.  Mull is the stopover isle that takes you lot to the proficient stuff.  Lunga is PUFFIN ISLAND.  Staffa is a geologists dream.   Iona is where Columba stopped over on his way to mainland Scotland on his majority conversion , but they also receive got some prissy beaches.

We got the ferry to Mull as well as directly jumped on a tour double-decker with lots of other tourists , most of them American.  I barbarous asleep after virtually 3 minutes as well as Nicholas entertained himself yesteryear taking embarrassing pictures of me.  The double-decker takes you lot from 1 destination of Mull to the other , as well as this takes virtually an hour.  I’m non certain why it takes thus long , but it does.  At Fionphort (which I had been reading every bit Finport but is manifestly Fyon-fort) you lot boundary on a smaller boat as well as they ferry you lot around to the islands.  We were doing the biggest , best as well as longest tour , thus nosotros got on the starting fourth dimension boat.

The master copy onboard had a golden Labrador to assist him steer , as well as at that spot was some other bloke who to a greater extent than oft than non hung around as well as helped elevator the uncoordinated passengers (ie. me) on as well as off the boat at the stops.  Before we’d fifty-fifty got to our starting fourth dimension isle , which was Lunga , he slowed downwards as well as pointed out a little colony of seals to us.  They were lying , some half-submerged , on the rocks , similar large , fatty , spotty bananas.  I told Nicholas this.

“Ah , aye ,” he said , “is that their scientific name?  Big Fat Spotted Banana Seal.”

“Yes ,” I replied.  “The Atlanticus Bananicus Pinnipedicus is its proper name.”  Nicholas rolled his eyes at me as well as ate a chocolate-covered muesli bar.

A dark bun , the starting fourth dimension creature nosotros spotted when nosotros arrived on Lunga

A wee sea parrot

The starting fourth dimension halt was Lunga , as well as it was the best stop.  When the human driving the boat says , “there’s a colony of virtually 3000 puffins” you lot call upward that you’ll in all likelihood consider lots of them diving around as well as catching fish , as well as a handful of them mightiness live nesting on land.  If you lot idea that , similar I did , you lot would live overwhelmingly , incredibly wrong.  From the instant nosotros scrambled upward the slippery rocks as well as flora ourselves on the headland , nosotros were bombarded yesteryear fatty lilliputian balls of feathers with orangish beaks as well as large orangish feet.

Puffins aren’t every bit good bothered yesteryear humans.  In fact , when humans are around they tend to relax a lilliputian chip , because it agency that sea eagles as well as things won’t come upward as well as prey upon them.  We could larn quite closed to them without bothering them at all.  So , we’ve exactly rock-hopped over moisture rocks as well as seaweed as well as scrambled upward some rocks to uncovering ourselves on the headland – notwithstanding solitary at this indicate because nosotros raced ahead – confronted yesteryear a proficient 50 puffins.  Before nosotros left for the tour , Nicholas as well as I had bet how many puffins nosotros would see; I said 50 , Nicholas said 20 ,000.  I won , but it was a closer margin than expected.

Lunga

A bunny with a grass beard

Knowing that this apartment headland would presently live covered inwards other tourists , nosotros continued walking through the mud as well as over boulders as well as through the grass until nosotros came to some other clearing.  Several rabbits had been hopping around beside us , including 1 really pretty lilliputian dark rabbit , as well as Nicholas was taking pictures of a chocolate-brown rabbit eating some grass when I called him over.

I was standing inwards forepart of a mini isle , exactly off Lunga , that was to a greater extent than of a sea stack pointing out of the Blue Planet , but to a greater extent than square-shaped.  It was cliffs on all sides , as well as every available nook , cranny as well as cleft housed a razorbill.  They were squawking as well as crying out as well as making a fuss , as well as you lot could discern several puffins with the throng yesteryear their vibrant feet.  Several regal cormorants were swooping out of the sea as well as landing inwards forepart of us , opening their beaks wide.


Literally thousands of razorbills


We changed direction when nosotros happened on some aggressive , nesting cormorants as well as nosotros feared they mightiness abandon their nests , as well as walked downwards to a little inlet where 4 or five lilliputian puffins sat inwards a trace , similar that Pink Floyd album embrace with all the painted ladies.  I was sitting quietly , watching them preen themselves as well as stare curiously at us newcomers , spell Nicholas took pictures.  It wasn’t long until five puffins became 20 , as well as 4 to a greater extent than cormorants joined them , as well as and thus a dyad of razorbills every bit well.  I inched closer to their lilliputian grouping , who were on the really border of the cliffy inlet , as well as 1 especially curious lilliputian puffin edged closer to me until nosotros were less than 2 feet apart.  After almost one-half an hr of watching the puffins as well as cormorants as well as razorbills flitting inwards as well as around us as well as beingness thus un-bothered yesteryear us that they tucked inwards for asleep , other tourist cottoned on as well as nosotros were joined yesteryear a handful of other camera-wielding holiday-goers.  It was pretty magical , as well as actually ignited a honey for the fatty lilliputian fuzzy birds.  They’re thus small.  They’re similar lilliputian toys!








From Lunga nosotros got dorsum onto the boat as well as sped downwards to Staffa , which was an isle gifted yesteryear a married adult man on behalf of his married adult woman to the Scottish Trust.  For her birthday.  I’m yet to come across a adult woman who would similar somebody to give her isle to somebody else for her ain birthday , but I don’t receive got a plethora of islands to spare.  Staffa is a pretty amazing isle , though.  It’s famous for a serial of basalt caves , formed yesteryear erupting volcanoes on Mull.  Fingal’s Cave , which is the most famous of the caves , features 3 dissimilar basalt formations , including the columnar form , as well as looks to a greater extent than similar a master copy craftsman sculpted it than moulded from lava.  Mother nature is badass.

We dubbed this isle Sombrero Island , because nosotros weren't certain what it was called.

Staffa 




We climbed as well as stepped as well as slipped over the columns until nosotros reached the oral cavity of the cave , which was tall as well as deep as well as broad – to a greater extent than similar entering a cathedral than a sea cave.  Nick whistled to examination out the acoustics.  They were top-notch.  The H2O was brilliant turquoise as well as shimmering nether the Sun , but every bit it compaction its way to the dorsum of the cave , it began to facial expression dark as well as mysterious , the cave casting all way of foreign shadows inwards the depths.  Nick took some recordings of the waves , as well as thus nosotros listened to the eerie current of air music he had recorded , as well as they sounded similar whales calling out to us playing over each other.



The terminal isle on our lilliputian risk was Iona , which had a greater emphasis on Christianity than its pale , glittery beaches , which I call upward was an oversight on their part.  Lots of people opted to receive got a beer as well as an H2O ice cream at the many , many cafes that littered the tiny isle , but nosotros went walking through some crofts to larn to the Monk’s Beach , where Vikings massacred a whole bunch of monks.  We considered stopping yesteryear the abbey , but it was a paid entry , as well as nosotros weren’t keen plenty on St Columba to pay it a visit. 

Back on Mull , our driver gave us a chip of a guided tour , giving us the low-down on every famous individual who’s e'er been to Mull (Damien Lewis , Sean Connery , Catherine Zeta Jones as well as Michael Douglas) , every criminal offence that’s e'er been committed (a human grew cannabis to soothe his arthritis once) as well as telling us stories virtually the wellness tending inwards Mull.  Apparently it’s excellent.  The most interesting affair was in all likelihood virtually the Highland cattle , which are most unremarkably naturally the dark diversity , but the Queen liked them chocolate-brown , thus at nowadays at that spot are to a greater extent than oft than non chocolate-brown ones.  Go figure.

The existent boat master


The Nunnery



We arrived dorsum inwards Oban , tired as well as in all likelihood to a greater extent than freckled than when nosotros left , but drove on until nosotros striking Loch Lomond where we’d live planned to kip for the night.  We caught a really killer sunset when nosotros took a incorrect plough on the roundabout , clouds burning highlighter pinkish inwards the distance.  A few days before , we’d noticed text on the map , with monuments as well as identify names , which only read “Rest as well as Be Thankful” , thus nosotros drove there.  It’s supposed to live a sentry , but nosotros missed it as well as slept inwards a large passing place.  When nosotros woke upward as well as drove dorsum way nosotros came , nosotros saw Rest as well as live Thankful , but at that spot was already a nutrient truck setting upward , thus it’s in all likelihood proficient nosotros didn’t slumber there.

One of the many castles belonging to the MacLeans on Mull


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