May 12 & 13: The Hollow Mountain & The Puffins

Hello friends |

We woke belatedly on Tuesday.  The heavy rainfall overnight had meant that the flow as well as the waterfalls were fifty-fifty heavier than they had been the previous twenty-four hours , as well as it was quite a meditative sound.  I dragged the blankets out into the lounge room as well as Nicholas poked the smoldering embers from terminal night’s dismiss , getting the dismiss going again. 
Vincent came as well as sat downwards yesteryear the dismiss , Black Cat taking his exit to become on parole.  We hadn’t had much planned except a hearty breakfast , as well as decided to caput to Cruachan Mountain (kru-kan mountain) to receive got a facial expression at the hydro flora that they construct into Ben Cruachan inwards the 60’s.

They’d made a huge dam upward inwards a mount corrie , as well as allowed the H2O to run through pipes within the mount as well as downwards to the loch below to generate power.  At times when they didn’t demand much ability , they could contrary it , as well as suck H2O dorsum upward to the dam.  This made me worry virtually the fish inwards the dam , but the guide explained that they had nets to halt anything getting sucked upward before I could ask.

Inside the mount they were long tunnels , large plenty to allow a double-decker , as well as a huge bedroom , large plenty to gibe the Tower of London inside.  They housed the iv large pony motors , which Nicholas tells me start the generators.  The utilization of the pony (or starter) motor agency that they tin can receive got ability to homes inwards virtually 28 seconds.  If they exactly allow the H2O inwards as well as allow the generators larn themselves going , it’d accept virtually 2 minutes.

Cruachan doesn’t run continuously , entirely at peak times when the grid needs a boost , but it tin can ability the Britain at peak unloosen energy for something similar xvi hours without needing to suck H2O dorsum up.  Amazing.

They had a nifty model of the within of the generator , which Nicholas liked as well as I didn’t actually sympathise , as well as they also had a wooden mural depicting the legend of the mount as well as the Queen using a scepter to convey electricity to the province (the Queen pulled the switch that turned the generator on).  It reminded me of the Assyrian fine art nosotros saw at the British Museum that depicted kings as well as leaders doing things that other people manifestly did.  I form of honey monarchical propaganda , fifty-fifty though I’m non into the monarchy.  I did notice Prince Harry was looking for somebody to receive got his babies though.

Back at the trouble solid , nosotros had to create a large overhaul as well as a large sort of all our things.  The boat trip was on for Midweek (I’m currently on the ferry to Mull!) as well as on Th nosotros are dropping off the motorcar , thus nosotros had to reorganize all the loose bits nether the seats as well as floating around inwards the ether.  This took longer than expected as well as at 20 minutes yesteryear midnight , Cara decided to become walkabout as well as Nicholas was running around the yard with a caput torch on trying to uncovering her.  Black Cat didn’t specially tending , as well as was sitting beside the dismiss , which was eating all the pamphlets as well as magazines we’d picked upward as well as didn’t demand anymore.

We did halt yesteryear Castle Stalker to accept some pictures , because we'd been driving yesteryear it almost every day.

Black Cat

This forenoon nosotros were upward early on (too early) as well as Nicholas had a speed shower spell I packed upward the create clean clothing as well as organised our backpack for the day.  We forced downwards breakfast as well as left after than anticipated , thus sped along the windy route towards Oban.  Nicholas parked the motorcar inwards the long-term bay , spell I collected a ringlet of tickets from the tour company.  This was our starting fourth dimension pre-planned tour twenty-four hours (possibly last) as well as nosotros were to see iv islands: Mull , Lunga , Staffa as well as Iona.  Mull is the stopover isle that takes you lot to the proficient stuff.  Lunga is PUFFIN ISLAND.  Staffa is a geologists dream.   Iona is where Columba stopped over on his way to mainland Scotland on his majority conversion , but they also receive got some prissy beaches.

We got the ferry to Mull as well as directly jumped on a tour double-decker with lots of other tourists , most of them American.  I barbarous asleep after virtually 3 minutes as well as Nicholas entertained himself yesteryear taking embarrassing pictures of me.  The double-decker takes you lot from 1 destination of Mull to the other , as well as this takes virtually an hour.  I’m non certain why it takes thus long , but it does.  At Fionphort (which I had been reading every bit Finport but is manifestly Fyon-fort) you lot boundary on a smaller boat as well as they ferry you lot around to the islands.  We were doing the biggest , best as well as longest tour , thus nosotros got on the starting fourth dimension boat.

The master copy onboard had a golden Labrador to assist him steer , as well as at that spot was some other bloke who to a greater extent than oft than non hung around as well as helped elevator the uncoordinated passengers (ie. me) on as well as off the boat at the stops.  Before we’d fifty-fifty got to our starting fourth dimension isle , which was Lunga , he slowed downwards as well as pointed out a little colony of seals to us.  They were lying , some half-submerged , on the rocks , similar large , fatty , spotty bananas.  I told Nicholas this.

“Ah , aye ,” he said , “is that their scientific name?  Big Fat Spotted Banana Seal.”

“Yes ,” I replied.  “The Atlanticus Bananicus Pinnipedicus is its proper name.”  Nicholas rolled his eyes at me as well as ate a chocolate-covered muesli bar.

A dark bun , the starting fourth dimension creature nosotros spotted when nosotros arrived on Lunga

A wee sea parrot

The starting fourth dimension halt was Lunga , as well as it was the best stop.  When the human driving the boat says , “there’s a colony of virtually 3000 puffins” you lot call upward that you’ll in all likelihood consider lots of them diving around as well as catching fish , as well as a handful of them mightiness live nesting on land.  If you lot idea that , similar I did , you lot would live overwhelmingly , incredibly wrong.  From the instant nosotros scrambled upward the slippery rocks as well as flora ourselves on the headland , nosotros were bombarded yesteryear fatty lilliputian balls of feathers with orangish beaks as well as large orangish feet.

Puffins aren’t every bit good bothered yesteryear humans.  In fact , when humans are around they tend to relax a lilliputian chip , because it agency that sea eagles as well as things won’t come upward as well as prey upon them.  We could larn quite closed to them without bothering them at all.  So , we’ve exactly rock-hopped over moisture rocks as well as seaweed as well as scrambled upward some rocks to uncovering ourselves on the headland – notwithstanding solitary at this indicate because nosotros raced ahead – confronted yesteryear a proficient 50 puffins.  Before nosotros left for the tour , Nicholas as well as I had bet how many puffins nosotros would see; I said 50 , Nicholas said 20 ,000.  I won , but it was a closer margin than expected.

Lunga

A bunny with a grass beard

Knowing that this apartment headland would presently live covered inwards other tourists , nosotros continued walking through the mud as well as over boulders as well as through the grass until nosotros came to some other clearing.  Several rabbits had been hopping around beside us , including 1 really pretty lilliputian dark rabbit , as well as Nicholas was taking pictures of a chocolate-brown rabbit eating some grass when I called him over.

I was standing inwards forepart of a mini isle , exactly off Lunga , that was to a greater extent than of a sea stack pointing out of the Blue Planet , but to a greater extent than square-shaped.  It was cliffs on all sides , as well as every available nook , cranny as well as cleft housed a razorbill.  They were squawking as well as crying out as well as making a fuss , as well as you lot could discern several puffins with the throng yesteryear their vibrant feet.  Several regal cormorants were swooping out of the sea as well as landing inwards forepart of us , opening their beaks wide.

Literally thousands of razorbills

We changed direction when nosotros happened on some aggressive , nesting cormorants as well as nosotros feared they mightiness abandon their nests , as well as walked downwards to a little inlet where 4 or five lilliputian puffins sat inwards a trace , similar that Pink Floyd album embrace with all the painted ladies.  I was sitting quietly , watching them preen themselves as well as stare curiously at us newcomers , spell Nicholas took pictures.  It wasn’t long until five puffins became 20 , as well as 4 to a greater extent than cormorants joined them , as well as and thus a dyad of razorbills every bit well.  I inched closer to their lilliputian grouping , who were on the really border of the cliffy inlet , as well as 1 especially curious lilliputian puffin edged closer to me until nosotros were less than 2 feet apart.  After almost one-half an hr of watching the puffins as well as cormorants as well as razorbills flitting inwards as well as around us as well as beingness thus un-bothered yesteryear us that they tucked inwards for asleep , other tourist cottoned on as well as nosotros were joined yesteryear a handful of other camera-wielding holiday-goers.  It was pretty magical , as well as actually ignited a honey for the fatty lilliputian fuzzy birds.  They’re thus small.  They’re similar lilliputian toys!

From Lunga nosotros got dorsum onto the boat as well as sped downwards to Staffa , which was an isle gifted yesteryear a married adult man on behalf of his married adult woman to the Scottish Trust.  For her birthday.  I’m yet to come across a adult woman who would similar somebody to give her isle to somebody else for her ain birthday , but I don’t receive got a plethora of islands to spare.  Staffa is a pretty amazing isle , though.  It’s famous for a serial of basalt caves , formed yesteryear erupting volcanoes on Mull.  Fingal’s Cave , which is the most famous of the caves , features 3 dissimilar basalt formations , including the columnar form , as well as looks to a greater extent than similar a master copy craftsman sculpted it than moulded from lava.  Mother nature is badass.

We dubbed this isle Sombrero Island , because nosotros weren't certain what it was called.

Staffa 

We climbed as well as stepped as well as slipped over the columns until nosotros reached the oral cavity of the cave , which was tall as well as deep as well as broad – to a greater extent than similar entering a cathedral than a sea cave.  Nick whistled to examination out the acoustics.  They were top-notch.  The H2O was brilliant turquoise as well as shimmering nether the Sun , but every bit it compaction its way to the dorsum of the cave , it began to facial expression dark as well as mysterious , the cave casting all way of foreign shadows inwards the depths.  Nick took some recordings of the waves , as well as thus nosotros listened to the eerie current of air music he had recorded , as well as they sounded similar whales calling out to us playing over each other.

The terminal isle on our lilliputian risk was Iona , which had a greater emphasis on Christianity than its pale , glittery beaches , which I call upward was an oversight on their part.  Lots of people opted to receive got a beer as well as an H2O ice cream at the many , many cafes that littered the tiny isle , but nosotros went walking through some crofts to larn to the Monk’s Beach , where Vikings massacred a whole bunch of monks.  We considered stopping yesteryear the abbey , but it was a paid entry , as well as nosotros weren’t keen plenty on St Columba to pay it a visit. 

Back on Mull , our driver gave us a chip of a guided tour , giving us the low-down on every famous individual who’s e'er been to Mull (Damien Lewis , Sean Connery , Catherine Zeta Jones as well as Michael Douglas) , every criminal offence that’s e'er been committed (a human grew cannabis to soothe his arthritis once) as well as telling us stories virtually the wellness tending inwards Mull.  Apparently it’s excellent.  The most interesting affair was in all likelihood virtually the Highland cattle , which are most unremarkably naturally the dark diversity , but the Queen liked them chocolate-brown , thus at nowadays at that spot are to a greater extent than oft than non chocolate-brown ones.  Go figure.

The existent boat master

The Nunnery

We arrived dorsum inwards Oban , tired as well as in all likelihood to a greater extent than freckled than when nosotros left , but drove on until nosotros striking Loch Lomond where we’d live planned to kip for the night.  We caught a really killer sunset when nosotros took a incorrect plough on the roundabout , clouds burning highlighter pinkish inwards the distance.  A few days before , we’d noticed text on the map , with monuments as well as identify names , which only read “Rest as well as Be Thankful” , thus nosotros drove there.  It’s supposed to live a sentry , but nosotros missed it as well as slept inwards a large passing place.  When nosotros woke upward as well as drove dorsum way nosotros came , nosotros saw Rest as well as live Thankful , but at that spot was already a nutrient truck setting upward , thus it’s in all likelihood proficient nosotros didn’t slumber there.

One of the many castles belonging to the MacLeans on Mull

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The Golden Circle: navigating Iceland's most touristed route

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Boiling hot geysers , a spectacular waterfall , the magical national green of Þingvellir... all inside a days drive - there's a argue that the Golden Circle is the most touristed route inward Iceland.  Here are some tips to soak upwardly the beauty without beingness knocked close past times crowds.

I should start amongst the basics.  The 'Golden Circle' is marketed inward a diverseness of ways - but it ever includes Geysir , Gullfoss and Þingvellir (which you lot mightiness meet written phonetically similar Thingvellir).  If you're looking at tours , many include the Blue Lagoon as well as Kerið too.  I'm going to tell you lot avoid tours similar the plague.  No , really , trust me.  

The map inward a higher house shows the route that Nicholas as well as I did.  We started at Hverageði , thus made our agency some the circle ending inward Reykjavik.  The driving part took 3.5 hours , as well as the entire circular trip took ix hours , including soaking inward the hot river at Hverageði.  Allow a solar daytime for the circular trip.

If you lot go inward summertime , allow a night.

The hot river at Hverageði simply earlier midnight

If , similar most people , you lot conception to view Republic of Iceland inward summertime , there's no ameliorate agency to brand the most of 24 sixty minutes sunlight than to halt past times the top tourist spots inward the middle of the night.  Iceland's scenery is the materials legends are made of , but it's difficult to live on mystified past times bubbling volcanic pots as well as dwarfed past times powerful waterfalls when you're looking over mortal else's shoulder.

I'm non exaggerating either - at whatsoever given daylight sixty minutes , you're jump to meet multiple tourist buses.  Sometimes you'll meet to a greater extent than than 6 or vii at a time. 

Don't bother adjusting your slumber cycle.  Just alternative upwardly a motorcar as well as pass the black driving.  

Kerið - the crater lake

Make the journeying from Hverageði to Kerið , where you lot tin walk the perimeter of this beautiful crater lake.  Err on the side of caution hither - sometimes it tin live on unopen off subsequently hours.

The smoking pools close Geysir

Geysir is literally THE geyser that made geysers geysers.  It's non really active anymore , but that's totally ok because Strokkur - Geysir's next-door-neighbour - goes off every few minutes.  Some eruptions are to a greater extent than spectacular than others , thus it's worth hanging some for a skillful one.

Some pools are completely inactive (but however hot , thus don't touch!) as well as are almost illuminated amongst an intense brilliant blueish light.  They're really pretty spectacular.  Don't throw coins inward them , though - a) the signs tell non to , b) that's a waste matter of perfectly skillful coins , as well as Republic of Iceland is pricey.

Your adjacent halt volition in all probability live on Gullfoss. Once upon a fourth dimension , Republic of Iceland were going to utilise its ability for liberate energy , but they didn't , as well as straightaway you lot tin larn admire it.  It's been described every bit 'Iceland's Niagara Falls' , as well as for skillful reason.  It's a beautiful waterfall , amongst 2 broad falls , as well as its falls are shrouded inward folktales.   

Not far from Gullfoss is the UNESCO-listed Þingvellir , situated inward the centre of its national park.  Þingvellir was listed every bit a UNESCO site inward 2004 , for its historical as well as geological significance.  Historically , Þingvellir is the place of the offset parliament of Republic of Iceland (also where they drowned witches).  Geologically , Þingvellir is where the Eurasian as well as North American tectonic plates are drifting apart.  If you're upwardly for something genuinely unforgettable , try scuba diving or snorkelling between the plates of the Silfra canyon.

EDIT: I convey really done this straightaway , as well as would 100% completely recommend.

The stance from Þingvellir

Öxarárfoss , in Þingvellir National Park

As nosotros were driving dorsum to Reykjavik - simply earlier 9am - nosotros passed Mossfellskirkja , which is i of my favourite churches we've seen inward Iceland.  It simply looks completely infinite historic catamenia as well as out of house amongst the surrounding mountains.  I advise you lot halt as well as marvel at this bizarre slice of architecture.  Even this early on inward the morn , tour buses filled amongst people were passing us the other agency (headed toward Þingvellir) , as well as nosotros were feeling really glad to live on finishing upwardly for the black as well as convey the whole circle completely to ourselves.  

Ok , nosotros saw i mink scurrying some close Geysir , but I don't intend he counts.

The Golden Circle was a pretty fantastic eventide trip , but wouldn't convey had the same magic to it if I'd been surrounded past times tour buses total of people! If you're headed to Republic of Iceland as well as it's on your to-do listing (it in all probability should be) , start planning a night-time route trip.

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Waterfalls and Lava Fields: our first 48 hours in Iceland [journal]

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If the Mars Rover footage had y'all dreaming of visiting unusual planets , hence y'all demand to larn yourself to Iceland.  We’d hired a machine for our rootage few days inwards Republic of Iceland hence that nosotros could explore the dramatic waterfalls as well as dark beaches of the South , but weren’t wholly prepared for the unusual scenery nosotros were close to experience.

Getting to Republic of Iceland was something else entirely.  We woke upwards – I was nevertheless sick – as well as lugged our things to the airport.  As luck would convey it , the shuttle jitney didn’t start running until the side past times side twenty-four hours , hence nosotros were walked the twoscore minutes to the drome alongside our packs , inwards the hot sun.  So nosotros larn inwards as well as we’re sweaty as well as I’m nevertheless sneezing similar crazy as well as my eyes are watery as well as I’ve got those shakes y'all larn when y'all larn the ‘flu hence nosotros don’t hold off peculiarly fine as well as upstanding.  To overstep it off , we’d forgotten to pack the wetbag inwards our checked baggage , hence my hairdressing pair of scissors as well as far likewise many liquids were inwards our carry-on.

We handed them over to security.  I was subjected to a frisking , alongside a stranger’s hands on my clammy dorsum (I wanted to apologise hence badly).  My torso was doing that weird feverish matter where I needed 3 jumpers ane infinitesimal as well as to live naked inwards an H2O ice bathroom the side past times side , hence I was switching out layers similar a mad person.  This had safety especially concerned as well as they all watched me similar hawks patch Nicholas beeped several times going through the scanner.

After beingness held upwards , nosotros were running belatedly for the plane.  We literally ran at that topographic point , were met at the gate , asked where on public we’d been seeing every bit nosotros were cleared at safety xv minutes agone (“We ran hither straightaway from security!”) as well as boarded the plane.  We were seated separately.

The bird took off apace , as well as my torso temperature was nevertheless all over the place.  I was sweating profusely as well as hence hot I was close to throw upwards , when Nicholas came to banking concern check on me.  I had no cash on me , but the friendly stewardess on WOW Air gave me a gratis bottle of H2O – belike glad I wasn’t vomiting everywhere.

I’m ordinarily a adept flyer.  I larn a flake antsy on long flights , but don’t heed them.  This flying was the exception , as well as I was thrilled when nosotros lastly landed at Keflavik.

We hopped inwards our hire machine as well as laid out downwards south.

A patch agone , I’d heard word that a swain RMIT Art School alumni had been sent on a ‘self guided cycling residency’ through Iceland.  While I’d never spoken to her during our fourth dimension at that topographic point , I knew her artwork , as well as there’s only hence many familiar faces hence far from abode , hence nosotros drove to the N1 where she was drinking her weight inwards java as well as got chatting.

We finished upwards after than anticipated , as well as made a late-night dash for Seljalandsfoss - the rootage major waterfall y'all divulge every bit y'all serpent your way some the telephone road.  Braving the mutual coldness as well as the moisture , nosotros ventured outdoors as well as made the curt journeying behind the waterfall (getting almost completely drenched inwards the process).

The heaven was nevertheless lit alongside the hazy blueish of dusk (or maybe dawn?) hence nosotros crawled into the piddling Suzuki Jeep-esque matter nosotros had rented , pulled out our sleeping bags , as well as slept inwards the car.

The side past times side violet waterfall on our journeying was Selfoss (if y'all haven't managed to deduce , 'foss' agency 'waterfall') , as well as nosotros only only managed to trounce the tour buses here!  We arrived only after 9am , made the curt trek upwards the staircase to the overstep as well as saw them arriving past times the one-half dozen on our descent.  A alarm to anyone who finds themselves visiting Republic of Iceland inwards the summer: brand role of the sunlight inwards the early on morning.

While the waterfalls y'all divulge en route to Vik are famed throughout the lands , I convey to tell it was the side past times side lot of scenery that actually captured my attention.  Sprawling dark rocky deserts , fields of hardy bluebell-like flowers (to forestall sandstorms from destroying the roads) , as well as groovy mossy lava fields , the remnant of disastrous eruptions inwards the 1700's.  

The heaven was a pale greyish as well as it made the landscape hold off to a greater extent than desolate than it would've otherwise (though , manifestly , the fields are much to a greater extent than vibrantly light-green after rain).  Very few cars stopped to detect the unusual shapes as well as forms inwards the rocky bubbles that went on , endlessly , inwards the landscape.  

We continued driving , stopping briefly to stare as well as marvel at the texture , earlier the landscape returned to the unusual , otherworldly dark desert.  Sections of the Iceland's glaciers peered at us over mountains , as well as nosotros stopped to come across the remnants of bridges destroyed past times a volcanic eruption from nether the glacier.  The pockmarked scenery was bear witness of the powerful natural forces that governed Republic of Iceland , forcing the people to constantly adapt. 

Passing Skaftafell (and vowing to come upwards dorsum as well as brand the pilgrimage to Skogafoss on our provide trip) nosotros made our way to the glacial lagoon only earlier midnight , to come across the little icebergs that drift through the H2O there.

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