May 23: A day in transit & The Island of Moss (Norway)

Hello friends |

Frantic packing , frantic organising together with a hurried breakfast preceded a really brisk walk to Buchanan Bus Station.  Going via the post service utilization , nosotros sent off some OS maps to Craig , feeling he would brand ameliorate utilization of them than nosotros would.  I also sent him my majority of Scottish folklore , filled alongside pressed flowers because I worried they wouldn’t last allow into Australia.

In typical Scottish fashion , it was the showtime twenty-four hours higher upwardly 10 degrees since nosotros arrived , together with nosotros were sweating nether our bags together with coats together with miscellanea.  We jumped on a omnibus , said goodbye to Glasgow together with arrived at the divergence desk at Edinburgh inside the hour.

We’d been worrying virtually getting all our VAT dorsum , but rapidly flora in that place was nil to worry virtually together with they didn’t ask to run across our meticulously packed luggage.  Nicholas organised all the forms (doing what he does best) together with I caught upwardly on people watching.

The flying to Oslo was shorter than flights from Melbourne to Brisbane , together with nosotros were hardly inwards the air earlier the stewardesses started bringing some on-board snacks.  I’m almost sure enough they were nonetheless finishing the rounds when the airplane pilot told us nosotros were virtually to descend for landing.  I could run across the peaks of snow-capped mountains higher upwardly the cloud embrace , but it didn’t hold off similar anybody was climbing them.

Arriving inwards Oslo , nosotros were rapidly checked over past times customs together with sent on our way.  Stig , our host for our rest inwards Moss , was waiting to greet us , looking jovial (and distinctly Santa-like) alongside his white beard.  He together with his married adult woman drove us from the drome , giving us a guided tour of Moss , which is a beautiful niggling town twoscore minutes from Oslo.  They drove us past times the bays together with beaches , where people were barbecuing together with settling inwards for a magical sunset , together with upwardly to their fantastic abode , perched atop the hill.  We were staying inwards the whimsical-looking monochrome annex merely below their solid , which gave sweeping views o the body of body of water together with surrounding foliage.  They gave us hot boller buns , which weren’t different to Easter hot cross buns together with showed us their electrical toilet.

Apparently , everything inwards Kingdom of Norway is electric.  When yous utilization the lavatory – together with I state yous this because it’s thence novel – yous identify a slice of newspaper inwards the metallic (waterless) bowl , create your describe of piece of occupation organisation into the newspaper , thence closed the lid together with press the START button.  This opens the bowl , sucks the filled newspaper downward , together with incinerates it.

“No waste!” said Stig excitedly , every bit Heidi showed us the toilet.

We chatted to the yoke for a patch virtually fine art together with Oslo together with languages.  They both had first-class English linguistic communication , but made me grin when Stig referred to superior technology every bit “brain breaking” (I recollect he meant groundbreaking) together with described Australians every bit an “omelet” because nosotros were such a blend of cultures.

Apparently , everything inwards Kingdom of Norway is electric.  When yous utilization the lavatory – together with I state yous this because it’s thence novel – yous identify a slice of newspaper inwards the metallic (waterless) bowl , create your describe of piece of occupation organisation into the newspaper , thence closed the lid together with press the START button.  This opens the bowl , sucks the filled newspaper downward , together with incinerates it.

“No waste!” said Stig excitedly , every bit Heidi showed us the toilet.

We chatted to the yoke for a patch virtually fine art together with Oslo together with languages.  They both had first-class English linguistic communication , but made me grin when Stig referred to superior technology every bit “brain breaking” (I recollect he meant groundbreaking) together with described Australians every bit an “omelet” because nosotros were such a blend of cultures.

The grocery stores had closed early on because it was a vacation weekend , thence nosotros couldn’t alternative upwardly whatever groceries for dinner.  We weren’t likewise fazed , because nosotros had some soups we’d brought alongside us from Scotland inwards our bags.  Half an hr afterward , Stig came running downward to us alongside a plate total of nutrient , apologizing that the stores were shut.  He handed us a plate of Moose Cakes – rissoles made of moose – together with some homemade bread.  We thanked him profusely , together with Nicholas assured him that , patch I was vegetarian , he was not.  Nicholas hasn’t eaten meat inwards a yr or thence , thence it wasn’t quick to become down.  He said it tasted a fleck similar beef.

It was 8 o’clock but it didn’t hold off similar the Sun was setting whatever fourth dimension shortly , thence nosotros pulled on our mutual coldness conditions gear together with caput downward to the beach to sentinel the sunset.  On our means , nosotros made friends alongside a furry dark together with white truthful cat (he reminded me of Puck , naturally) together with he was quick to befriend us i time to a greater extent than on our means abode an hr later.  His human was merely pulling upwardly every bit nosotros walked past times , together with I was a fleck embarrassed to last caught alongside her truthful cat inwards my hands.

We caput upwardly the loma to our beautiful niggling annex merely after 11pm to repack our bags together with larn our things organised to receive got to Oslo.  It was almost 1am when nosotros settled into the folded out daybed together with looked exterior the windows.  A deadening bluish low-cal was nonetheless streaming through the windows , giving the illusion that dawn was breaking outside.  I read non 2 pages of my majority , together with barbarous asleep.

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Norway In A Nutshell – Is it worth it?

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I late had the joy of doing the Kingdom of Norway inwards a Nutshell tour on my agency from Oslo to Bergen.  It was recommended inwards Lonely Planet every bit a bang-up agency to larn into Fjord dry soil , thus I paid the hefty fee attached to the tour in addition to fix out. 

I’ll live honest , though… I was frustrated trying to volume this.  The website is a flake clunky in addition to confusing.  Eventually I worked out that you lot tin volume extra nights in addition to form out your ain accommodation , which I highly recommend.  I’ll larn to that inwards a infinitesimal though.

What tin you lot facial expression from the tour?

Firstly , I usage the term ‘tour’ loosely.  It is arranged through a fellowship called Fjord Tours , but it’s to a greater extent than of a roundabout agency to larn from Oslo to Bergen.  I know you lot tin hit other tours every bit good , but I mean value the Oslo-Bergen is the most popular. 

Secondly , I don’t mean value it’s slow to larn a bad sight of Norway. Have you lot seen this country?  It’s a photographer’s dream.  Any tour , prepare trip , boat ride – anything – that you lot hit volition live breathtakingly beautiful in addition to create top degree photographs.  So – is it worth it?

Choo-chooing through lush , light-green forests on the train

THE FIRST LEG

The get-go leg of the trip is the longest one.  You larn on a prepare (early!) from Oslo in addition to it takes you lot upwards to Myrdal.  You larn assigned seats for this role of the journeying , but you lot definitely desire to live on the left side inwards the administration of travel.  Both sides offering first-class views , but at that spot is to a greater extent than to encounter on the left.  We were lucky that some seats were empty inwards our wagon in addition to nosotros could flit betwixt both sides during the journey.

The get-go hr or thus , you’re only coasting through suburban/industrial Oslo , thus there’s non every bit good much to see. If you’re exhausted from getting upwards thus early on , you lot tin conduct maintain a nap hither without feeling every bit good guilty.

After this , things larn a flake interesting!  You’ll start whizzing yesteryear beautiful , lush light-green landscapes in addition to larn a existent sense of beingness inwards the forest.  Depending on the fourth dimension of twelvemonth you lot move (I went inwards May) things volition facial expression a flake dissimilar , though. 

My favourite role of the journeying came only afterward the lush greenery passed by.  Quite speedily , the landscape turned into a snowy desert , punctuated yesteryear little lakes in addition to pockets of sand.  If you’re a Star Wars fan – similar me – you’ll desire to conduct maintain your photographic boob tube camera create for this part!  Finse , the highest signal higher upwards body of body of water flat on the trip , is where they filmed the scenes on Hoth , the H2O ice planet.  We were lucky that nosotros had 20-ish minutes to hop exterior in addition to explore hither , in addition to it’s definitely worth braving the cold.  It’s beautiful.

Soon you’ll discovery yourself at Myrdal , in addition to you’ll outflow off in addition to alter for the Flåm railway.  Even if it’s summertime , you’re a fair agency higher upwards body of body of water flat at nowadays , in addition to it’s worth bringing a sweater to article of apparel spell you lot hold off for the train.

Approaching the snowy dry soil close Finse - what a contrast to the forest!

THE SECOND LEG

From Myrdal , you lot larn on board the Flåm Railway.  This is touted every bit an incredibly steep railway , but don’t facial expression a rollercoaster experience similar I did!  Most of the steep bits are through tunnel , thus you’re inwards full darkness.  No seats are assigned for this leg , in addition to I’d recommend finding a spot on the left side inwards the administration of travel.  There are a twain of amazing views out the correct side for the get-go flake , but i of those you lot larn fourth dimension for a photo-op exterior the train.

The Flåm Railway is quite a brusk journeying (only almost an hour) , in addition to you’re going thus speedily it’s non worth taking pictures for the most part.  I’d advise sitting dorsum in addition to enjoying the trip to Flåm!

Kjosfossen Waterfall - a halt on the Flåm railway

THE THIRD LEG

Once you lot become far inwards Flåm , it’s fourth dimension to larn on a boat through the Aurlandsfjord to Gudvangen.  The boat ride takes a trivial over 2 hours , in addition to it’s a bang-up fourth dimension to conduct maintain lots of pictures of the dramatic scenery.   You’re going to desire to stand upwards exterior for this flake of the journeying in addition to marvel at the cliffs , the beautiful H2O in addition to the trivial villages in addition to boathouses dotted around the place.  It’s unreal , in addition to a perfect agency to experience the magic of the fjords , peculiarly if this is your get-go fourth dimension seeing them.   You’ll larn to cruise through the UNESCO-listed Nærøfjord , which is consistently listed every bit a must-see inwards Norwegian tourist brochures.

It powerfulness live mutual depression temperature in addition to windy hither , thus definitely choose a sweater in addition to a rainjacket , thus you’re non tempted to sit down inside.  There are lots of mutual porpoises swimming inwards the H2O hither , thus continue an oculus out for them , too! 

UNESCO-listed Nærøyfjord from the ferry

THE FOURTH LEG

From Gudvangen you lot outflow on a bus.  Both sides of the double-decker are pretty spectacular at dissimilar points of the journeying , thus you’re inwards for a bang-up sight no thing where you lot sit down , but I recommend the left again.  The right-hand side seats seem to conduct maintain the wages at get-go , but sitting on the left-hand side gives amend views of the valley afterward the get-go one-half an hour.   There’s a department amongst a serial of spectacular hairpin bends that I loved , but definitely felt similar a double-decker shouldn’t live doing!

THE FIFTH LEG

The double-decker volition conduct maintain you lot to Voss , where you lot receive the 5th in addition to lastly leg of the trip.  You’ll larn dorsum on a prepare in addition to caput right away into Bergen.  There are assigned seats for this role of the journeying , but hope that you’re sitting on the right-hand side!  The views are actually spectacular in addition to underrated for this role of the trip , I think.  It’s some other brusk leg – alone an hr or thus – in addition to you’ll discovery yourself inwards beautiful Bergen!  If you lot similar , you lot tin larn dinner inwards Bergen in addition to and thus conduct maintain the overnight prepare dorsum into Oslo.

The beautiful UNESCO-listed laneways of Bryggen inwards Bergen

Phew!  So there’s a breakdown of the journeying itself.  Now , it is expensive to hit the tour , peculiarly when you lot consider it’s alone a one-day trip.  I chose to mass the tour out a trivial flake yesteryear adding an overnight halt inwards Flåm… I definitely recommend adding an overnight stay!  If you’re doing it on a budget , endeavor your luck at finding accommodation on AirBnB earlier you lot volume inwards amongst the hotels they recommend , which are all on the pricey side.   However , you lot hit larn a complimentary FJORDCARD when you lot volume the tour , which gives you lot a discount on some hotels , every bit good every bit AVIS machine hire.

Flåm , where I stayed , also has a youth hostel in addition to a campground , where you lot tin pitch a tent for around 200NOK.   If you’re either , a) stingy or , b) looking for something a flake to a greater extent than scenic , you lot tin walk for almost an hr inwards whatever administration in addition to pitch a tent.  The camping ground laws inwards Kingdom of Norway are extremely unloosen – you lot only request to live 150m away from a edifice , away from drinking H2O in addition to non on cultivated/farmland.  We hiked upwards to a waterfall that overlooked Flåm in addition to flora it to live a near-perfect campsite.

Our campsite upwards on top of Flåm

I actually loved the Kingdom of Norway In Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 Nutshell , but it had its downsides.  It did experience really touristy , at times the bus/train/boat felt really crowded , fifty-fifty though nosotros were at that spot earlier summertime started.  In high summertime , I’m certain the carry is fifty-fifty to a greater extent than crowded , in addition to you lot powerfulness conduct maintain to volume farther inwards advance.

Two of my favourite bits of the trip were the get-go in addition to lastly leg , which are on the train. If you’re actually pushing the limits of your budget , the prepare is a fantastic compromise.  If you lot volume to a greater extent than than a solar daytime inwards advance for the Oslo-Bergen prepare , you lot tin larn the minipris (small price) , which is almost 399NOK , every bit opposed to 1600NOK for the Nutshell tour.  The prepare journeying solitary is however incredibly beautiful.

Finse - a halt on the Oslo-Bergen train 

Have you lot e'er done Kingdom of Norway inwards a Nutshell?  Got whatever other suggestions or anything to add?

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Waterfalls and Lava Fields: our first 48 hours in Iceland [journal]

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If the Mars Rover footage had y'all dreaming of visiting unusual planets , hence y'all demand to larn yourself to Iceland.  We’d hired a machine for our rootage few days inwards Republic of Iceland hence that nosotros could explore the dramatic waterfalls as well as dark beaches of the South , but weren’t wholly prepared for the unusual scenery nosotros were close to experience.

Getting to Republic of Iceland was something else entirely.  We woke upwards – I was nevertheless sick – as well as lugged our things to the airport.  As luck would convey it , the shuttle jitney didn’t start running until the side past times side twenty-four hours , hence nosotros were walked the twoscore minutes to the drome alongside our packs , inwards the hot sun.  So nosotros larn inwards as well as we’re sweaty as well as I’m nevertheless sneezing similar crazy as well as my eyes are watery as well as I’ve got those shakes y'all larn when y'all larn the ‘flu hence nosotros don’t hold off peculiarly fine as well as upstanding.  To overstep it off , we’d forgotten to pack the wetbag inwards our checked baggage , hence my hairdressing pair of scissors as well as far likewise many liquids were inwards our carry-on.

We handed them over to security.  I was subjected to a frisking , alongside a stranger’s hands on my clammy dorsum (I wanted to apologise hence badly).  My torso was doing that weird feverish matter where I needed 3 jumpers ane infinitesimal as well as to live naked inwards an H2O ice bathroom the side past times side , hence I was switching out layers similar a mad person.  This had safety especially concerned as well as they all watched me similar hawks patch Nicholas beeped several times going through the scanner.

After beingness held upwards , nosotros were running belatedly for the plane.  We literally ran at that topographic point , were met at the gate , asked where on public we’d been seeing every bit nosotros were cleared at safety xv minutes agone (“We ran hither straightaway from security!”) as well as boarded the plane.  We were seated separately.

The bird took off apace , as well as my torso temperature was nevertheless all over the place.  I was sweating profusely as well as hence hot I was close to throw upwards , when Nicholas came to banking concern check on me.  I had no cash on me , but the friendly stewardess on WOW Air gave me a gratis bottle of H2O – belike glad I wasn’t vomiting everywhere.

I’m ordinarily a adept flyer.  I larn a flake antsy on long flights , but don’t heed them.  This flying was the exception , as well as I was thrilled when nosotros lastly landed at Keflavik.

We hopped inwards our hire machine as well as laid out downwards south.

A patch agone , I’d heard word that a swain RMIT Art School alumni had been sent on a ‘self guided cycling residency’ through Iceland.  While I’d never spoken to her during our fourth dimension at that topographic point , I knew her artwork , as well as there’s only hence many familiar faces hence far from abode , hence nosotros drove to the N1 where she was drinking her weight inwards java as well as got chatting.

We finished upwards after than anticipated , as well as made a late-night dash for Seljalandsfoss - the rootage major waterfall y'all divulge every bit y'all serpent your way some the telephone road.  Braving the mutual coldness as well as the moisture , nosotros ventured outdoors as well as made the curt journeying behind the waterfall (getting almost completely drenched inwards the process).

The heaven was nevertheless lit alongside the hazy blueish of dusk (or maybe dawn?) hence nosotros crawled into the piddling Suzuki Jeep-esque matter nosotros had rented , pulled out our sleeping bags , as well as slept inwards the car.

The side past times side violet waterfall on our journeying was Selfoss (if y'all haven't managed to deduce , 'foss' agency 'waterfall') , as well as nosotros only only managed to trounce the tour buses here!  We arrived only after 9am , made the curt trek upwards the staircase to the overstep as well as saw them arriving past times the one-half dozen on our descent.  A alarm to anyone who finds themselves visiting Republic of Iceland inwards the summer: brand role of the sunlight inwards the early on morning.

While the waterfalls y'all divulge en route to Vik are famed throughout the lands , I convey to tell it was the side past times side lot of scenery that actually captured my attention.  Sprawling dark rocky deserts , fields of hardy bluebell-like flowers (to forestall sandstorms from destroying the roads) , as well as groovy mossy lava fields , the remnant of disastrous eruptions inwards the 1700's.  

The heaven was a pale greyish as well as it made the landscape hold off to a greater extent than desolate than it would've otherwise (though , manifestly , the fields are much to a greater extent than vibrantly light-green after rain).  Very few cars stopped to detect the unusual shapes as well as forms inwards the rocky bubbles that went on , endlessly , inwards the landscape.  

We continued driving , stopping briefly to stare as well as marvel at the texture , earlier the landscape returned to the unusual , otherworldly dark desert.  Sections of the Iceland's glaciers peered at us over mountains , as well as nosotros stopped to come across the remnants of bridges destroyed past times a volcanic eruption from nether the glacier.  The pockmarked scenery was bear witness of the powerful natural forces that governed Republic of Iceland , forcing the people to constantly adapt. 

Passing Skaftafell (and vowing to come upwards dorsum as well as brand the pilgrimage to Skogafoss on our provide trip) nosotros made our way to the glacial lagoon only earlier midnight , to come across the little icebergs that drift through the H2O there.

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